Dorchester Area
This description of the Dorchester area has the following headings: Introduction, Landscapes, Market Towns and Villages.
Introduction
Dorset is a county of outstanding natural beauty and a land of great contrast and breathtaking scenery. Dorchester is its centrally located county town. On the south coast of England, between Devon and Hampshire lies the county of Dorset. It has no big towns apart from Bournemouth and Poole in its south eastern corner and has been scarcely touched by the age of industry and big business. Perhaps because of this, it has been relatively unexplored by visitors to Britain. Yet, it is 100% beautiful countryside. It boasts rolling hills, breathtaking countryside, ancient villages and a coastline so unequalled it has recently received World Heritage status. This was the first time England has been given this prestigious award for a natural site. But the Jurassic coast, with its amazing fossil finds, is not the only rich, historical pride of this lovely place. The county is full of stone circles, earth barrows and ancient hill forts (Maiden Castle near Dorchester is the largest Iron Age hill fort in Europe).There is an excavated Roman house at Dorchester and the remains of a Saxon abbey at Shaftesbury, founded by one the most famous kings of all, Alfred the Great. And then there is the famous naked Giant, the huge, ancient figure hewn into the chalk hill of Cerne Abbas, looming over the village. Along the coast there are award- winning beaches as well as the picturesque harbours of Lyme Regis and Weymouth, where small fishing boats bob on the waters once prowled by pirates and smugglers. A journey inland through the winding country lanes reveals much more than the numerous charming villages. There are carnivals and village fairs, and traditional thatched pubs and tearooms offer locally brewed ales and home- made fare.
Dorset is also the home of one of the greatest writers of all time - Thomas Hardy. In fact, Dorset is the county where Hardy based the majority of his books. His birthplace at Higher Bockhampton and his final home at Max Gate, now both owned by the National Trust, can still be visited today. Dorset was also the home of the enigmatic T.E. Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia. His house at Cloud's Hill (also owned by the National Trust) is situated just north of Bovington and he is buried in the churchyard at Moreton. Dorset delights at any time of the year. There is something for everyone in this rich and varied county: numerous boat rides, the steam railway at Swanage, tank rides at the Tank Museum at Bovington, long distance walks, cycleways, horseriding, llama- trekking, fishing and much more.
Landscapes
There are three unique landscapes in the Dorchester area. They are the Jurassic Coast - a World Heritage Site - the Dorset AONB and the Isle of Portland.
Jurassic Coast
This stretches from Studland in the east to beyond the Dorset/Devon border in the west.
Dorset AONB
The Dorset AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) covers over 40% of the county. It includes the Jurassic Coast - Britain’s first natural World Heritage Site - where you can walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs. Inland, the tranquil countryside is full of rural charm and was the setting for Thomas Hardy’s famous novels. The area offers many things to see and do which include:
The Isle of Portland
One of Dorset's best known areas is Portland, an island with precipitous cliffs jutting into the English Channel and linked to the mainland by Chesil Beach and the A354 causeway. Thomas Hardy described it as the 'Gibraltar of Wessex'. The island is 41⁄2 miles long and 2 miles wide; its highest point is 496ft above the sea. An underground fort, sloping down to about 20ft above the sea, was later converted into a notorious prison.
Portland Stone has graced many of the worlds most famous buildings. It was discovered about 300 years ago by Inigo Jones who used it for the construction of the Banqueting Hall at Whitehall Palace in London. It was also used to decorate St Paul's Cathedral, Buckingham Palace and the UN Building in New York.
Besides its stone, Portland Harbour is unique in the facilities and protection it offers vessels within its sheltered and uncrowded waters. From 1872 to 1986, it was one of Britain's main naval bases. The base is now closed but its natural and man made features still make it a superb choice for all vessels, from yachts to large ocean going liners and new facilities are being developed.
Portland Castle, which overlooks Portland Harbour, was built by Henry VIII to defend Weymouth harbour from potential French or Spanish invasion. Its squat fan appearance is typical of castles built in the early 1540’s. The castle experienced serious fighting during the Civil War when it was seized by both Royalists and Parliamentarians and it still had an important defence role in the First and Second World Wars. Portland' has a spirit all its own and a people that are proud of being different from the nearby mainlanders. There are several
villages on the island with stone cottages that rise in steps up its slopes. Some of them can be traced back to Saxon times.
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Market Towns
Dorchester
Dorchester’s history as a settlement stretches back over 4,000 years. Overlooking the town is Maiden Castle, the largest of the many Iron Age hill forts scattered across the Dorset landscape. 2,000 years ago. The town was an important Roman settlement. Remains can be seen of the Roman wall and of a 4th century Roman town house, the only one remaining intact in Britain. Most of the present town dates from the 17th and 18th centuries as medieval Dorchester was largely destroyed by fire. One of the buildings to survive is Judge Jeffrey’s lodgings in High West Street. In the late 17th century the notorious ‘Bloody Assizes’ were held in the town following the unsuccessful Monmouth Rebellion. Three hundred townsfolk were condemned to death and many of their heads impaled on the local church railings to warn others against treason.
A more uplifting episode in the town’s history concerns the Tolpuddle Martyrs; six agricultural workers banded together as the Friendly Society to appeal for a slight wage increase on the grounds that their families were quite literally starving. In 1834 they were sentenced to seven years transportation to Australia for swearing unlawful oaths at their initiation ceremony but the force of people power prevailed. They were pardoned two years later and the trade union movement came into being. The courthouse where the Tolpuddle Martyrs were tried is now a museum dedicated to their achievements. Other local museums include the County Museum, the Tutankhamun Exhibition, the Dinosaur Museum and the Military Museum.
Dorchester is in the centre of Thomas Hardy country. The writer was born a few miles away at Higher Bockhampton and spent much of his life in Dorchester, or Casterbridge as it is known in his novels. Hardy's actual home,
Max Gate, where he later lived and died is situated in the town.
Nearby attractions include: Maumbury Ring Stone a Stone Age sacred circle and Roman amphitheatre and could hold over 10,000 spectators of gladiatorial combat. The birthplace of T.E.Lawrence, best known as Lawrence of Arabia, in Moreton and his home Clouds Hill, now owned by the National Trust. Cerne Abbas a beautiful village famous as the site of Britain’s largest hill figure. Athelhampton House and Gardens,one of the finest 15thC manor houses, surrounded by a glorious Grade I Listed garden. Kingston Maurward Gardens, a formal Edwardian garden with a stunning ornamental lake Minterne Gardens, an important rhododendron garden with many fine and rare trees,
Beaminster
Beaminster is a delightful small town located in the heart of the rolling countryside of West Dorset, 21 miles north west of Dorchester. With over 200 listed buildings in its historic centre, it is a charming tranquil place to visit. It stands at the head of the Brit Valley in a walker’s paradise. The town once thrived from wool cloth and sailcloth and has been ravaged by fire three times over the centuries. The whole of the town centre is a conservation area. Explore Beaminster with a visit to the town museum which features Beaminster and its people from medieval to modern times plus the history of neighbouring villages and their agriculture. Shopping here is on a small scale with quaint shops offering unique gifts and bakeries providing delicious fare.
Beaminster is located in the centre of a wide variety of attractions including historic houses, splendid gardens and scenic points such as Pilsdon Pen, the highest point in Dorset. If you would like something a little out of the ordinary, why not take a Llama for a walk through the beautiful West Dorset countryside or visit Broadwindsor Craft And Design Centre,an old farm complex of craft shops which is only 2 miles out of town.
Blandford Forum
Blandford Forum lies 17 miles north east of Dorchester on the River Stour, The town was rebuilt in 1731 after a great fire destroyed much of the centre, the work was completed within 30 years by the Bastard brothers, who were noted period architects. It is one of the best preserved Georgian towns in England. The market place is much as it has been for over two hundred years. Local attractions include the Royal Signals Museum, the Blandford Forum Museum and Chettle House.
Bridport
Bridport is an interesting town, set amongst the West Dorset hills at the meeting place of the Brit and Asker rivers, 15 miles west of Dorchester. It dates from the 9th or 10th century but also has a Roman heritage. By the early 13th century it had become the country’s most important rope making centre. This was followed by net making and it was upon these two industries that the town’s fortune was built. The Bridport Museum will take you through the town’s interesting and varied history and is well worth a visit. A colourful market is held in Bridport every Wednesday and Saturday. A Farmer's Market is held on the 2nd Saturday of the month and is one of the best in West Dorset. Local craft and gift shops are located in the town centre.
It is a pretty harbour village that is a gateway to the Jurassic coast. In the evening try a gentle stroll and then try one of the great pubs or restaurants, to sample a fresh seafood supper. It makes an ideal centre for strollers, hikers, fishermen and all who come to enjoy the West Dorset coastline. Other nearby attractions include: Eggardon Hill Fort, an Iron Age fort with the best views of any hill fort in Dorset. Mangerton Mill, a 17th Century working water mill set in peaceful rural valley on the River Manger with trout fishing and a riverside walk. Palmers Thatched Brewery, one of the few traditional breweries left in Britain. Pilsdon Pen, an Iron Age hill fort and one of the the highest points in Dorset.
Lyme Regis
Lyme Regis is a picturesque seaside town, 24 miles west of Dorchester. Edward 1 made it a royal borough in 1279. Its outstanding feature is its 13th century harbour - the Cobb, a haven for shipping from the time it was built. It was enough to cause it to be besieged during the Civil War and is famous for being the landing place of the Duke of Monmouth prior to the Pitchfork Rebellion at Sedgemoor in 1685. It was made more famous by the film, ‘A French Lieutenant’s Woman’ from the book by resident local author John Fowles.
The town was the seaside residence of Jane Austen who featured it in “Persuasion”. Mary Anning, who made one of the most famous dinosaur discoveries nearby, was a Lyme Regis native. In many of the town’s shops you’ll find relics of the past, ancient fossilised creatures that have been recovered from the beaches. Just along the coast is the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre at
Charmouth. Here you can find out how to hunt for your own fossils. The award winning Philpot Museum charts the town’s history.
Poole
With over 138,000 inhabitants, Poole is a very large town by Wessex standards. It has a long history dating back to the Iron Age. Poole Old Town is an intriguing mix of smugglers passageways and elegant 17th and 18th century merchant’s houses. Today, Poole is a bustling port town centred around one of the largest natural harbours in the world. Poole Quay is a lively and vibrant area that is well appointed with restaurants, bars and pubs in which to sit and enjoy the superb views over the harbour. The town is surrounded by areas of great visitor interest including the Isle of Purbeck, Brownsea Island, the New Forest and Wimborne Minster.
Wareham
Wareham is 17 miles east of Dorchester. It was the site of a prehistoric community on high ground between two rivers which join in Poole Harbour. The long rectangle of earth walls and streets suggest Roman adaptation of an earlier settlement but most of its early history concerns conflicts between the Saxons and the Danes. Alfred the Great defeated the Danes here and drove them out to sea. Until the rivers silted up, it was an important Saxon port. Wareham is still a market town of great character, encircled by its Saxon walls. It boasts a variety of interesting buildings, from St Martin’s, Dorset’s oldest church to the only gas-lit cinema in Britain, the restored Rex. The river now sustains more peaceful activities including pleasant river bank walks, and scenic boat trips to Poole Harbour.
Nearby is the RSPB reserve at Arne. Even for non-ornithologists, this is a magical area of heath and wetland. It supports many rare birds including the Dartford Warbler, a wide variety of dragonflies and all our native reptile species. Large numbers of deer collect at the water’s edge. Thomas Hardy renamed Wareham as Anglebury in his novels and many other settings in his works are located nearby. Not far away, is the home of T.E.Lawrence, Clouds Hill and his grave at Moreton church. For those interested in military heritage, Bovington Tank Museum boasts the largest collection of tanks and armoured fighting vehicles in the world.
Weymouth
Weymouth lies just 8 miles south of Dorchester. It has been a port for many centuries and evidence shows that Roman Galleys sailed up the River Wey where they were beached and cargo unloaded for transport to the Roman Town of Durnovaria (Dorchester). Its importance as a port has been recorded many times. In 1347 it supplied 15 ships and 263 mariners for the siege of Calais. In 1588 ships were supplied for the fight against the Spanish Armada. From the early days of colonial expansion many emigrants to the New World have sailed from Weymouth. Earliest information of regular cross channel shipping indicates that an advertised packet sailing vessel initiated the route between Weymouth and the Channel Islands on a Saturday in 1794. During the Second World War an active part was played in support of D- Day and the invasion of Normandy operations Made a seaside resort by George III in the 18th century, Weymouth
has grown to become a popular holiday destination. There is a Georgian sea front, a fine beach, set in a safe and scenic bay, and, what is now, a small picturesque harbour with sailing and fishing boats.
Wimborne Minster
This is an ancient market town, nestling between the rivers Allen and Stour, 22 miles east of Dorchester. It was established over 1300 years ago when St. Cuthberga founded a nunnery there and suffered greatly from Danish raids. The Minster church sits on the site of Cuthberga’s nunnery, which was destroyed by the Danes in the early 11th century. Work on its construction started in the 12th century. The church features characteristics of all architectural styles from Norman to late Gothic and contains several fascinating historical features, including a rare chained library and a remarkable astronomical clock. In Wimborne, is the Monk's Museum, owned by the National Trust, Dean's Court which offers 13 acres of garden around the old deanery, Walford Mill an18th century flour mill, and the award winning Museum of East Dorset Life, and Gardens. Nearby are the 17th century mansion at Kingston Lacy, Bradbury
Rings, an outstanding Iron Age hill fort, Knoll Gardens and Stapehill Abbey and Gardens.
Villages
The Dorchester area is full of charming villages that have been around for a very long time. This is a selection of some of the best known ones.
Abbotsbury
A charming village of yellow stone cottages, 8 miles south west of Dorchester that lies among rolling hills near the coast. The village was dominated by its abbey which was built about 900 years ago. Henry VIII’s men destroyed the abbey during the Dissolution apart from the great Tithe Barn which still stands today. In 1644 the Royalists battled the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War from the tower of Abbotsbury’s 15th century church. The major nearby attractions are the Abbotsbury Swannery, a wildfowl reserve which has a history that dates back to the 11th century. the Abbotsbury Sub-tropical Gardens and Chesil Beach, a huge bank of shingle that has its own history dating back to Roman times.
Burton Bradstock
The village of Burton Bradstock is on the Jurassic Coast,15 miles west of Dorchester. It lies in the Bride Valley where it is sheltered from the sea and consists of thatched cottages, welcoming inns and a maze of quaintly named narrow streets. The village has always been closely associated with the sea. Like many other villages in West Dorset it has also had strong links with the hemp and flax industry of Bridport. The church is 15th century and dedicated to St Mary. From Burton Bradstock, there are lovely rural walks along the top of the cliffs with fine views across to Portland Bill in the east and Golden Cap in the west.
Cerne Abbas
Cerne Abbas is 7 miles north of Dorchester. It is well known because of the Cerne Abbas Giant the chalk figure which stands 180ft high and includes a club that is 120ft long. This has been called the most outstanding and mysterious of all hill carvings. Nobody knows for sure just what its origins were but it is thought that it may date from the 2nd century AD. The village itself is full of charm. It has some beautiful architecture, especially in Abbey Street which has medieval timber fronted houses with overhangs. Cerne Abbey, which was built during the 9th century, disappeared many years ago and today the only sign of it is its gatehouse and a 14th century tithe barn. Today Cerne Abbas is a showpiece for visitors with restaurants, tea shops and inns. It is also home to a busy market.
Corfe Castle. Inhabited since 6000bc, the town of Corfe Castle nestles beneath the impressive ruins of the castle, 22 miles east of Dorchester in an area known as the Isle of Purbeck.. The town and its famous castle are built mainly from the Purbeck stone which some consider to be the finest limestone available for building and polishing in England. . There is a belief that Corfe Castle may have been a Roman defensive site, but the castle we see today, one of Britain's most majestic ruins, dates from the 11th century when it was built on the site of a 9th century wooden castle . It controlled the gateway through the Purbeck hills from the time of William the Conqueror until it was destroyed during the English Civil War. It still dominates the landscape. Today, the castle is managed by the National Trust.
Loders
The village of Loders and its neighbour, Uploders are located 14 miles west of Dorchester. They were first recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086. Loders has a lovely main street that has all stone buildings that were built in the 17th - 19th centuries. The village church, St Mary Magdalene was a priory church from 1107- 1410. Most of the present church dates from this period. The gardens of Loders Court surround the church and churchyard. Uploders, also has some handsome stone buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Upton Manor Farm which sits at the eastern edge of the village is a huge quadrangle of buildings with thatched or pantile roofs.
Milton Abbas
Milton Abbas is 12 miles north east of Dorchester in a valley set among the chalk hills. It is the site of Milton Abbey which was founded by King Athelstan over a thousand years ago, destroyed by fire in 1309 and rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1786, Joseph Darner who was the squire of the village of Milton Abbas at the time wanted to build a mansion near the abbey but did not want the villagers to be next door to him. He therefore almost completely destroyed the original village and replaced it with a remarkable model village further away. This carefully planned development consisted of one street containing 40 identical cottages all evenly spaced along the road. Today the houses and the Abbey sit side by side just as they did in 1786.
Moreton
Six miles east of Dorchester, Moreton is a quiet and peaceful village on the banks of the River Frome. However, it was here that T.E Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia spent his retirement in a cottage at Clouds Hill which is in the heart of the Great Heath. This rather mysterious man was laid to rest in the churchyard at Moreton and his coffin was inscribed 'To T.E.L., who should sleep amongst kings”. Local villagers tell of the ghost of Lawrence which has been seen riding along the lanes of Moreton dressed in Arab costume. It is Lawrence’s cottage, now a national Trust property, that attracts visitors to the village. The church is also well worth a visit, especially for its fine Lawrence Whistler engraved window.
Powerstock
Powerstock is a very attractive village 13 miles west of Dorchester in the downs to the north of Bridport. It stands among quietly flowing streams on varying levels at the foot of the Iron Age hill fort of Eggardon. The 12th century church is located high on a hill and looks down on the cottages below. Powerstock is thought to have existed prior to the Norman conquest. An earthwork to the south west of the village is considered by tradition to have been a castle of King Athelstan. A Norman motte and bailey fort and a hunting lodge of King John are known to have existed in the area.
Puddletown
Puddletown is 5 miles east of Dorchester. It was the Weatherbury of Thomas Hardy’s Far from the Madding Crowd. In the Saxon period, it belonged to Earl Harold and came into the hands of the Earls of Dorset after the Norman Conquest. Its principal attraction is its fine mainly 15th century church which contains many interesting features. Puddletown was once dominated by the Martin family who had two manorial houses in the area, one at Athelhampton and the second at Waterson. Puddletown, its church and its stone built cottages have seen little change over the years.
Symondsbury
This charming yellow sandstone village is 17 miles west of Dorchester, set in a wooded hollow near Bridport. Its 14th century church occupies the site of an even older building. There are many charming cottages with thatch much in evidence.
Tolpuddle
Tolpuddle, located seven miles east of Dorchester, is a quaint village full of thatched cottages and with its own village green. It is surrounded by meadowland with the River Piddle flowing past and what is left of a Norman church. . It is famous for the part it played in the creation of the union movement. It was here 1831 under a huge Sycamore tree that six farm labourers gathered together to create what later became the start of trade unionism in England. They were sentenced in Dorchester to serve seven years in a penal colony in Australia at a court in Dorchester. Eventually they were all given a pardon and freed. They then became famous as the Tolpuddle Martyrs and continue to be remembered annually by the union movement today.
Upwey
Upwey, 4 miles south of Dorchester, was the setting for one of Thomas Hardy’s novels. When Weymouth was at its peak as a seaside holiday destination at the end of the 19th and early in the 20th century, it was a beauty spot to which many Weymouth visitors came and it still retains the rural charm that had been so appealing at that time. The village has three particular features. the church, some of which dates from the 13th century, an old mill beside the stream and the Upwey Wishing Well. The latter is an ancient monument and is said to be the largest natural spring in Britain. It still attracts many visitors eager to make their wishes.
Whitchurch Canonicorum
This village is 20 miles west of Dorchester and has been called the capital of the Marshwood Vale probably because it once had an extremely large parish. One of its most prominent citizens was Sir George Somers who gave Shakespeare the inspiration to pen The Tempest and sailed with Sir Walter Raleigh when he colonised Virginia. Its main clam to fame, however, lies in its church which is said to have been founded in 890 by King Alfred the Great who, in his will, bequeathed Whitchurch to his youngest son. Whitchurch Canonicorum has been a place of pilgrimage for many centuries. Its church contains the shrine of St. Wite, one of only two intact shrines in the country (The other is in Westminster Abbey). It is the only parish church in England to have a shrine containing the remains of its patron saint. Today it is a peaceful village of stone cottages and little evidence of the modern world.
World Heritage Sites of Wessex
These details were last updated on
26 AUG 2007
