Taunton Area
This description of the Taunton area has the following headings: Introduction, Landscapes, Market Towns and Villages.
Introduction
Taunton is the county town of Somerset and the Taunton tourism area lies entirely within its borders. It is perhaps the most diverse of the Wessex areas, ranging as it does from the Somerset Levels in the east to the wild country of Exmoor in the west, with three groups of hills in between plus the coastal area. It is an area that is dominated by landscape. For the visitor, its attractions are largely outdoors, walking, cycling, riding, fishing, wildlife, visiting one of its gardens or just driving around enjoying the scenery and stopping for a picnic or for refreshment in a village pub. Dotted throughout, there are interesting market towns and charming villages to explore.
Landscapes
Exmoor
Exmoor is one of 13 National Parks in Britain. National Park status is granted to areas that are an important part of national heritage. These parks, which contain some of the finest landscapes in the country, are protected to conserve their scenery, wildlife and cultural heritage and for the understanding and enjoyment which this can provide for visitors. The Exmoor National Park lies north west of Taunton and covers 267 square miles. It is characterised by tranquillity, beauty, closeness to nature, unspoilt countryside and fresh air. It is one of the few extensive areas of relatively wild and unspoiled countryside remaining in Southern England. The central plateau of open moorland is remote and spacious. To the north the moorland terminates in towering cliffs above the Bristol Channel. This is the spectacular “Heritage Coast” where rocky headlands and steep wooded ravines with waterfalls make this an
area of outstanding scenic beauty.
Brendon Hills
The Brendon Hills lie to the north west of Taunton. They are often described as the bridge between Exmoor proper and the Quantocks; also as the gateway to Exmoor. Although they have been included within the boundaries of Exmoor National Park, the Brendon Hills present a more gentle rolling landscape than the moor itself. This is the country made famous in “Lorna Doone”. They are heavily wooded in the north but with enclosed fields surrounded by banks and fine beech hedges in the south. This typical landscape extends right across the south western lower slopes of the Park While Exmoor proper is farmed mainly with beef cattle and sheep, here there is dairy farming. Like Exmoor, these hills which rise to 1,200 feet provide great walking, cycling and touring country. This is an unspoiled countryside of narrow, largely traffic free country lanes, footpaths that offer splendid views, charming old villages
and welcoming pubs. It is a place to slow down and enjoy nature.
Quantocks
It says much about the quality of its landscape that the Quantocks was the very first area in England to be designated as an “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” (AONB). In addition, Quantock Common was designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSI). These two special landscapes contain habitat of international importance, with nearly 10% of the world's maritime heathland, and they are quite different in character from Exmoor. The hills themselves cover an area of about 50 square miles and reach to a height of 1,260 feet (384 metres) at Will's Neck. They stretch from just north of the county town of Taunton to the Bristol Channel. From the hill tops there are extensive views of the Brendon Hills and Exmoor to the west, the Blackdown Hills to the south-west and the Bridgwater Bay area to the east. They are unique in Britain in having kept intact their entire coverage of open heathland. This descends
into areas of broadleaved woodland, forestry and farmland. Many combes, or valleys, each with distinct characteristics, cut into the side of the hills with villages and hamlets dotted around the lower slopes.
Woods are an important feature of the Quantocks. As well as offering outstanding scenery, they provide a haven for the rich and varied wildlife, in particular, the red deer that roam the hills and the buzzards. The area especially attracts those who partake in outdoor pursuits as well as those who just want a leisurely stroll to take in the scenery. It is a destination for walking, cycling and horse riding with many miles of footpaths and bridleways which offer views across the Severn Estuary to South Wales and beyond or beautiful scenery in the deep valleys. It is also good for both coarse and fly fishing.
Somerset Levels and Moors
The Somerset Levels and Moors are one of the most important wetlands of their type in the world. They lie east and north east of Taunton and form a unique, flat and open landscape much of which is at, or slightly above sea level. Covering 250 sq. miles (57,000 ha), the area is mainly a huge, reclaimed marsh where the pastures are divided not by hedges but by a network of channels, known as 'rhynes', a landscape that has been shaped by a regular pattern of flooding, drainage and farming. This is one of Europe’s most ecologically sensitive and fragile areas in which the needs of agriculture are carefully balanced to sustain the precious heritage of plants, insects, animals and birds. It is an uncrowded and remote area with many hidden places to discover and explore and provides a relaxing atmosphere for quiet leisure pursuits such as fishing, cycling and walking. Visitors will find peaceful
pastureland and orchards; traditional industries such as cider and basket making; and interesting villages and towns set in a water landscape.
The Levels and Moors are the finest remaining area of wet grassland left in Britain. It is immensely rich in wildlife including the huge flocks of waterfowl it supports in winter, especially internationally important numbers of Bewick's swans, golden plovers, teals and lapwings. The area is also one of the most important breeding areas for curlews, redshanks and snipe, wading birds that all require wet grassland. The number of otters is a further indication of an exceptionally rich food chain. The key to understanding the area and in getting the best of of it is to visit one or more of the Levels and Moors Visitor Centres. Complimenting one another. each centre specialises in an interesting and traditional feature of the area. The Visitor centres are: Willows and Wetlands Visitor Centre, Langport & River Parrett Visitor Centre, The Peat Moors Centre and the Tribunal: Glastonbury Lake Village Museum.
Blackdown Hills
The Blackdown Hills extend southwards from the M5 Motorway near Taunton to Honiton in Devon. The area has also been designated as one of the Britain’s AONB’s (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). It consists of a steeply wooded escarpment that looks north towards Taunton, from which a plateau extends south, deeply dissected by valleys and combes. The farmhouses and cottages built of local stone, the archaeological and historic sites and the rich wildlife all add to its charm. With nature reserves and forest parks, the hills are good for ourdoor activities. For walkers, cyclists and riders, a network of hedges, mature trees and small copses and the quiet bridle paths and byways offer many opportunities to explore and enjoy the countryside and the interesting villages dotted throughout it. The 175 ft tall monument, erected in honour to the Duke of Wellington, is the area’s most famous landmark.
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Market Towns
Taunton
Taunton is the county town of Somerset. It lies between the Blackdown & Quantock Hills AONB. It dates from the time of King Alfred the Great and received its charter in 904. From the 13th century the town was closely associated with the wool industry. It was especially prominent in 1407 when Perkin Warbeck seized the town and proclaimed himself king during the Civil War (1642-1646), and at the time of the Monmouth Rebellion (1685).
These days it is a bustling community of over 100,000 and the main market town for a wide area. Taunton is a centre for tourist accommodation. It does not have major attractions which are located in the surrounding countryside. It does, however, have its own Heritage Trail, a self guided tour of the town centre which includes Bath Place, a narrow street which dates from the Middle Ages. This has a number of charming little shops offering an unusual range of goods and services. The street was straightened in the eighteenth century and most of these shops and other buildings date from this time.
The church of St Mary Magdalen is worth a visit. It was completed in 1514 and has been described as a masterpiece of the English Gothic style with “the noblest parish tower in England”. The approach to it is along a street of symmetrically designed Georgian terrace houses.
Dunster
This is a very pretty small town that sits on the edge of Exmoor, 21 miles north west of Taunton. It is dominated by its red sandstone castle, dramatically perched on a wooded hill above. Apart from the 13th century gatehouse, the present castle dates from 1868-72 when it was remodelled by the Luttrell family who lived in it for 600 years until, in 1950, it was passed on to the National Trust. Dunster was a port in the 16th century, but now the sea has receded about two miles. It has been preserved through the ages by the Luttrells and has a wide main street of medieval buildings and a 17th century Yarn Market. Other features include a water mill and a medieval packhorse bridge. The parish church was originally a Benedictine priory but the present building dates from the 15th century and is Perpendicular in style. It is generally regarded as one of the finest churches in Somerset.
Milverton
Milverton is 9 miles west of Taunton. The earliest evidence of settlement dates from the 11th century, the time of the Norman Conquest. The present town consists of a gridiron of streets of interesting 18th and 19th century buildings, built of local red sandstone. These have created pleasant well balanced streetscapes, especially North Street a charming Georgian thoroughfare. The northern part of Milverton includes the manor of Preston Bowyer which survives as an attractive hamlet. The parish church became an archdeaconry in the 13th century and among its archdeacons were Stephen Gardiner, died 1555, who was subsequently Bishop of Winchester and Chancellor of England, and Thomas Cranmer, 1489- 1556, who was to become a notorious Archbishop of Canterbury. The present church is, like many Somerset churches, Perpendicular in style and mainly built in the 15th century.
One famous Milverton man was Thomas Young (1773- 1829) who originated the wave theory of light, gave the word energy its scientific significance and pioneered the study of optics and colour perception besides, in his spare time, contributing to the deciphering of Egyptian hieroglyphics.
Dulverton
Set among wonderful scenery, Dulverton is a small market town in the south east corner of Exmoor National Park. There is evidence of settlement here in the Iron Age. The land was held by the Saxons and then seized by the Normans. It was not until the 14th century and the growth of the wool industry that Dulverton took on the trappings of a town. Present day Dulverton is an attractive town with the River Barle flowing through it, spanned by the medieval Barle Bridge. Around the market square area there are a number of interesting little shops, eating places and inns. The Market House is now the town hall and Exmoor House is the headquarters of the Exmoor National Park Authority. The parish church has 13th century tower but the rest was rebuilt in the mid 19th century.
Villages
On ExmoorCulbone
Culbone is a tiny village that cannot be reached by road. By car, the drive is down a narrow path to a car park and then a 1 1/2 mile walk to the village. The alternative is a 2 mile walk from Porlock Weir. Both walks are very highly rated. One writer described them as “a walk through woods of walnut and oak, glorious on a summer’s day with the sea glinting through the trees”. “This is a place that has a tranquillity few places can provide”. Culbone church is the smallest complete parish church in England (35 feet long and 12 feet wide). It was in a nearby farm that Coleridge wrote Kubla Khan.
Exford
Exford is located in the centre of Exmoor. Eight settlements were recorded here in the Domesday Book (1066). It is a spacious village, with Exmoor cottages built around the large tree shaded village green with cricket pitch. The picture is completed with an old packhorse bridge and a church on the hill. It is a “horsey” community and a centre for hunting. It is also a good place, from which to enjoy the excellent walking that Exmoor offers.
Luccombe
Luccombe is a charming little village in a leafy wooded setting that impressed one visitor as being “like a beautiful garden” as is its smaller neighbour, Horner. These are places for a quiet stroll or drive. There is an impressive church for such a small village. Horner has a mill and a pack horse bridge. But it is the overall picture the two create that makes it worth a short side trip off the main road, the A39.
Porlock Weir
Porlock Weir is an idyllic little harbour community that once served the whole hinterland area. It has a row of 17th century lime washed cottages and the old Ship Inn. Formerly it was a fishing port and also brought in general cargo port from South Wales, Bristol and beyond. Now the harbour is mainly a mooring point for pleasure yachts. Its function as a harbour may have gone but the setting is great with the high wooded slopes forming a dramatic backdrop for the
cottages and the inn. It has an ambience all its own.
Selworthy
Selworthy lies two miles east of Porlock. Although a very popular village to visit, it has retained its charm. It is a picture postcard for visiting photographers but at the same time, also very much authentic. The scene is of delightful thatched cottages grouped around the village green and shaded by walnut trees with a handsome church looking down on it all. The village is the hub of the lvast Holnicote estate. In the 10th century, the estate was held by Edith, the wife of King Edward the Confessor until, in 1066, it was seized by the Normans. It then passed through several families until 1776 when it was acquired by the Acland along with the Holnicote estate that surrounds it. The cottages around the green were largely put there in 1828 by Sir Thomas Acland for his retired workers. The lime washed parish church, one of Somerset’s finest, is set high on the slopes of Selworthy Beacon. It has a 14th century
west tower but the rest was built in the 1530’s and is Perpendicular in style. Its principal treasure is its south aisle with its glorious wagon roof. Below the church. is a 14th century tithe barn.
Simonsbath
Simonsbath, a walker's mecca, is in the centre of Exmoor. It is a relatively new village, developed by John Knight after he bought Exmoor in 1818. He and his son were the first to farm the unproductive moor land successfully. Simonsbath was the hub of their many enterprises.
Winsford
Winsford, which is in the eastern part of Exmoor, is one of the prettiest Exmoor villages. It is also one of the oldest settlements with hill forts, barrows and other prehistoric remains in the vicinity. including the Caratacus Stone. Winsford is lies on the River Exe and has no less than seven bridges. There are thatched cottages around its green and the ancient Royal Oak Inn which is also thatched. Ernest Bevin the former British Foreign Secretary was born in one of the cottages. Withypool Withypool is a relatively remote village about six miles west of Winsford. It has a harder Exmoor feel
to it than Winsford and is a centre for horse riding and most other activities connected with horses.
On the Quantocks
Crowcombe
Crowcombe nestles on the lower western slopes of the Quantocks in a valley of woods and scattered farms. This long narrow village is of visitor interest because of four buildings. First, there is the fine largely early 16th century parish church of the Holy Ghost with an interior that is high and light. The Perpendicular south aisle, fan vaulted porch and decorated bench ends are of particular note. Across the road, is the Church House built in 1515 where ale was brewed and bread baked for local festivities. Such jollifications were banned by the Puritans in the 17th century and this is one of the few such houses that has survived. Nearby is the drive at the end of which is the magnificent seven bay, three storeyed, Crowcombe Court built for Thomas Carew, the lord of the manor, between 1724 and 1739. The massive scale of the house, its giant Corinthian pilasters and
the wide driveway edged by lofty trees, all present a graceful confirmation of wealth.
East Quantoxhead
East Quantoxhead is the sort of village that prompts townspeople to dream about moving to the country. It consists of a most attractive grouping of thatched cottages running alongside a stream down to a duck pond and mill house. The manor is unique in being held by the same family since it was first granted to them after the Norman Conquest (1066). The present house, Court House, was built in the early 17th century. Its gardens are occasionally open to the public. Near the house is the simple but interesting 14th century parish church. The village attracts many walkers who head off along the coastal paths.
Holford
Holford has two main attractions. First it is a popular departure point or destination for Quantock walkers (particularly the Plough Inn). Secondly, Alfoxton Park, a Georgian mansion built in 1720 with great views ot the sea. It is now a hotel but is best known
as the home of William and Dorothy Wordsworth who lived here and entertained their literary circle in 1797/8.
Nether Stowey
Nether Stowey is a large bustling village that is perhaps more pragmatic than picturesque. There are a number of good 18th century houses especially in Castle Street which also has an attractive stream running along it. At one end of the village there are the earthwork remains of a classic Norman motte and bailey castle perched on a high mound from which there are superb views.
Stogumber
Stogumber is a very attractive village on the lower western slopes of the Quantocks. Although it is quite small now, it has a long history. There was probably a Saxon minster where the church is today. In the 15th and 16th centuries it was a centre for the woollen industry and throughout the 19th century it remained an important market community. Terraces of thatched cottages climb up the hill, some with medieval doorways and wrought iron. At the top is St. Mary’s Church with white washed cottages
surrounding its tranquil courtyard. Although some parts of this fine red sandstone church date from 1300, most was the result of rebuilding in the 15th century. The interior is full of light and colour.
Stogursey
Stogursey stands on the plain at the foot of the Quantocks. It came into the hands of William de Courcy after the Norman conquest and with its Norman Church and castle, it still retains its Norman connections. It is not a picture postcard village but it has a solid charm of its own with a number of interesting buildings along the main street including Stoke Courcy House, the Poulet almshouses and the ornate school donated by the Acland family. The outstanding parish church was the church of a Norman priory and its crossing, transepts and chancel are wonderful survivals of the earliest period of Norman architecture in Britain. The first castle was probably built before 1100 as the seat of the barony of Stogursey. After its last military action in 1233, it became more of a manor house that decayed over the years. A ruined keep, walls and an impressive moat survive along with some earthworks.
On the Somerset Levels
Aller
Aller is a village on the edge of the levels stretching along the A372 three miles north of Langport. Its interest lies one mile west of Aller on what used to be Aller Island. This was probably the site of the original settlement and it is here that Aller church and manor house lie. After King Alfred the Great had defeated the Danes at the Battle of Edington in 878, he signed the Treaty of Wedmore with them. Part of the treaty was that Guthrum, the King of the Danes and some of his nobles would be baptised as Christians. It was on Aller Island that this ceremony took place. Aller church is a small church in a charming setting that was largely built in the 12th century. However, the round shape of the church suggests a Saxon influence and many claim the font to be Saxon. If so, it may well have been, as claimed, the one in front of which Guthrum kneeled when he was baptised.
Athelney
Athelney is a small community adjacent to East Lynge. Its interest for visitors is in its association with Alfred the Great. After the Danes attacked in late 877 and seized Chippenham, a secure base from which they could lay waste to much of Wessex, Alfred withdrew to the remote Isle of Athelney and regrouped. He built two forts, one on the Isle and the other nearby in East Lynge. After consolidating his position he summoned a mobile army of men from Wiltshire, Somerset and part of Hampshire and, in May 878 led them to the decisive victory over the Danes at the Battle of Edington. It was while he was on Athelney that the story says “he burnt the cakes”.
Isle Abbots
Isle Abbots is a small village set on an isolated mound in the levels. It was owned for much of its history by Muchelney Abbey. There are attractive thatched cottages arranged to suggest an early planned community.
The main reason to visit Isle Abbots is its parish church which is a magnificent building which Pevsner described as “outstanding among Somerset churches, both internally and externally”. It dates from 1300 with additions in the 15th century.
Meare
Meare is a village with a very long history set, like so many Levels villages, on what was an island. It has three areas of interest. In 1973, peat diggers discovered a network of the earliest dated trackways in Europe in Westhay (in Meare parish). The oldest is Sweet Track which has been dated to around 4,000 BC. There are also two Iron Age lake villages discovered in 1895, Meare East and Meare West which show evidence of continuous occupation from the 3rd century BC to the 2nd century AD. Then,, Meare has the unique 14th century Abbot’s Fish House where the head fisherman from Glastonbury Abbey used to live and store his catch.
Westonzoyland
With its proximity to Bridgwater, this village has seen a good deal of new development but retains its visitor attractions. The parish church is one of the finest in the area. It is a 15th century church built in the Perpendicular style and
is especially notable for its lofty tower and the roof of its nave. Just north of the church is the site of the Battle of Sedgemoor fought in July 1685 in which the troops of King James II defeated the Duke of Monmouth’ s rebels.
World Heritage Sites of Wessex
These details were last updated on
26 AUG 2007
